Thursday, March 1, 2012

A Perfect Round

Well, it has been 12 days since my fall and I'm feeling quite a bit better. I certainly can say that I'm not at 100% just yet, but I'm ready to be back on the rocks.

I got quite a rude awakening when I climbed the NBL lines at St Peter's, but I think that everyone else got the same feeling. Russell set some sick lines, very fun! Two of them seem to be very very hard, both are possible but not for me at the moment with the shoulder being as sore as it is. The 10th problem involved this horrible deadpoint to a three-finger half-pad sloper off of a very small right hand hold. Only stuck it once, and stuck it as a mono! The other problem isn't too bad, but my shoulder wouldn't let me do the first move so I decided to leave it alone and focus my energy on healing.

The NBL at the barn was way too easy. It was a bit of a feel good session. On the way there I was thinking to myself, "wouldn't it be cool to be strong enough to flash all the problems?" Turns out I was, but they were a joke. The hardest problem was in line with the number 9 problem at St Peter's on most nights, flashable but you need to focus. The others I climbed very well. It was a bit mental victory to me nonetheless. I really enjoyed the problem, I'm not complaining about the quality at all, they were just way too easy for the NBLs... Next week they are going to be insanely hard, I'm sure! No more perfect scores.

After my session I put on my weight vest and the problems again. I used 8.4kgs of weight, which is double what I was using normally. I am trying this out to see how it works. When I pull on small holds my hands just open straight up. It's makes things complicated seeing as I can't do all the fun problems with that much weight, but I do have to concentrate on my body, foot and grip position a lot more. Undoubtedly, it will make me stronger and a better climber in the end. Bla bla bla... It still isn't fun to get shut down on problems you can campus without the vest! ha ha...

This weekend is gonna be great. I'm getting back on Lab Rat! Herman is going to be there, perhaps Alex and Ebert too. I'm looking forward to it. I seriously need to get some photos of Lab Rat, it's such an amazing line, seriously visionary!