Serious Frustration

Well, what can I say? The week started off really good after coming back from my time in the Freestate. Trained hard on Monday, making it 3 days of climbing consecutively. I was wearing 6 kilos of weight. I began with 40 minutes of tough boulder problems. Each of them between 7 and 9 move boulder problems.

From there, I went into my campus program with weights on still.

1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 Success
Rest 1 min
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 Success
Rest 1 min
1-3-5-7-9 Success
Rest 1 min
1-3-5-7-9 Success
Rest 1 min
1-4-5-8-9 L Success
Rest 4 min
1-4-5-8-9 R Success
Rest 4 min
1-4-5-8-9 L failed 8
Rest 4 min
1-4-5-8-9 R failed 8
Rest 4 min
1-4-5-8-9 L Success
Rest 4 min
1-4-5-8-9 R Success
Rest 4 min

Removed the vest

1-4-6-9 L Failed reaching to 9
Rest 2 min
1-4-6-9 R Success
Rest 2 min
1-4-6-9 L Failed reaching to 9
Rest 2 min
1-4-6-9 R Success
Rest 2 min

1-4-4-Deep lock-2-0 Success
Rest 2 minutes
1-4-4-Deep lock-2-0 Success
Rest 2 minutes

1-4-1-4-1-4-1-4-1 Mono middle finger --> Success
1-4-1-4-1-4-1-4-1 Two finger --> success
1-3-5 ladder using two fingers only

I felt exhausted after this and needed to take Tuesday as a full rest day in preparation for my trip to Waterval Boven on Wednesday.

Wednesday: This brought me to the culmination of the last 3 weeks of training. I was working my project in Boven. Put the draws up, then on my second go reached a new high point but my fingers slipped off the left hand crux side pull. I was quite happy, tried the route two more times and made it above my old high point twice but was unsuccessful on the route still.

Afterwards I needed some time to think and rest so I climbed on Condor. While I was placing the draws I figured out the moves again and got the crux sorted out with some beta that Andrew recommended. Got it easily 15 minutes later. Thought it was a bit too soft to be a 28.

Thursday: rest day. Well, almost. Did a bunch of walking between Superbowl and Go No! to pick up saws and a hammer we forgot there when Andrew was adding bolts to Overlord the previous day. I then watched Andrew fly through the rebolting of Tripolactic Fairy Tales. Afterward, I cleaned Hypertension for Ebert so I could show him how to do the crux.

Friday: More frustration. Wet holds cost me the send on my line. Tried a new line of Andrew's after this, Just Behrly! AND IT IS BARELY THERE! Smallest holds I've ever tried to hold in my life. Seriously a massive sandbag if it's meant to be 28. It is much more like a 30. Had a good workout on Monster after this, hadn't quite figured out the upper crux at the top so ended up having to downclimb that bit and then reclimb it. Was fantastic fun to repeat!!!

Saturday I found myself at Fernkloof with Colin, Jono, Ruan, Ansie, Frankie and Ilse. Was a brilliant fun day. Worked Stormwatch a bunch, linked from below the 3 bolt to the anchors, and managed to link just past the third bolt from the ground. Too bad for seeping holds. Still was a brilliant workout! Repeated Lawyers, Guns and Money (26 soft) first go so that I could help Jono with the beta.

Sunday was a nice relaxed day. Was at the Barn with Paul for a while trying to flash the competition routes from the day prior. Had good fun. Afterward, I put in a short session on his campus board there.

3-7-11
3-7-11

3-7-11-Down climb-7-3
3-7-11-Down climb-7-3
3-7-11-Down climb-7-3

3-7-11-Down climb-7-3-6-9-12
3-7-11-Down climb-7-3-6-9-12
3-7-11-Down climb-7-3-6-9-12
3-7-11-Down climb-7-3-6-9-12

Was good fun...

Also had an awesome meeting with Tristan who informed me that he would like me to design the Brian Weaver Signature Series of grips for Vertigo Industries. Keep your eyes open for them in the future, they're coming!