I think the easier thing would be for me to show a breakdown of my program for the last three weeks as well as the plan I've created for the year. My year plan is based around completing certain routes and is my wishlist for the year along with how I hope to get there.
|Dangling in the void... Where is this year taking me?|
|16-Jan||Monday||Rope Ladder x 5,1 single 4xskipping rungs/5 moves, campus session on large rungs.||Barn||Sliced finger from Saturday. Opened a new boulder problem with a very dynamic sideways move. Worked pinch problem and sloper problem|
|18-Jan||Wednesday||5 move problems, open hand/pinch||Barn||focused on open hand problems and sent my pinch route. Had trouble with the dynamic move to open hand slopey jug. Had a hard time with 3rd problem which involved matching and crossing over to a big round pinch. The footwork was very hard, toe-hook release and then moving the RF to next hold was very hard. Cannot cutloose on the pinch.|
|19-Jan||Thursday||5 move problems, crimps/dynos||Barn||Easy session. Worked underclings and crimps as well as open hand pockets in preparation for Harrismith.|
|21-Jan||Saturday||23 OS, 21 OS, 4 goes to Cosmic girl Rp, Swiss Cheese x 2||Harrismith||Nearly flashed CG (28) fell off on dynamic move to pocket. Sent second time I reached that move, 4 goes. Fell off above crux on Swiss Cheese 2nd go, didn't remember to concentrate on my feet so I grabbed the wrong hand holds. WORK OUT YOUR OWN BETA.|
|22-Jan||Sunday||2 x Bird Brain, 2 x Swiss Cheese, 1 x FSOM||Harrismith||Dorked the onsight of Bird Brain (25), could see either of the hidden jugs. Sent Swiss Cheese (29) easily, arms were aching. Worked out all the sequences on FSOM (29) and did the moves as good links. Send BB effortlessly at the end of the day. Felt very strong on open hands and even dynamic moves. KEEP IT UP!|
|23-Jan||Monday||Silent Feet, 15 min; Power bouldering, 5 moves. Pinches, 2-pockets and swings.||Tuks||Worked heavily on drop knees and on long moves between poor holds, as powerful as I could make it. 4.4kgs for some of the session.|
|25-Jan||Wednesday||2 hours of hard 2-4 move boulders; campusing; boulder with 1 min rest||Barn||split two fingers and cut the session short|
|26-Jan||Thursday||4 move problems||tuks||good results, showed good progression|
|29-Jan||Sunday||squaw play x4 RBx7 tries on first move||Wigwam|
|30-Jan||Monday||Contact strength, 2 move problems, core||Barn|
|01-Feb||Wednesday||2 Move problems. Sent Yvette's projects for me from Monday on poor holds with big reaches.||Barn||35 Pushups; 7-1-7-1; lock offs|
|03-Feb||Friday||Routes for comp. 10 routes in 2 hours, all flashes except for men's final route. Climbed several routes back to back.||Barn|
|06-Feb||Sunday||Squaw Play, 3 goes then rain.||Wigwam||Warm up: linked from undercling
2nd go: linked from pocket/sloper to chains.
3rd go: popped on sloper, rain. Linked from crimp/sloper to chains with wet holds.
Last of Mo. Till left sidepull effortlessly.
|07-Feb||Monday||NBL at St Peter's. 10-12 Boulder problems, 5 attempts max. 2 hours.||St Peter's||Afterward: Repeated problems with 4.4kg. Could do 1-7. I couldn't send 9,11,12 at all, fell off finish hold of 9 about 10 times! Very core intensive.|
|08-Feb||Tuesday||NBL problems again. Will try to do 9,11,12. Longer problems to gain some power endurance.||St Peter's||Sent 9th problem with
the bad sloper, did all the moves on 11 to bad sloping pinch and topped out.
Did all the problems except 9, 11 &12 with 4.4kg.
slow climbing up and down, max reach with weight
7-1-7-1, 25 push ups, 5 leg lifts to bar, 5 1-arm levers L&R; plank pose L&R 5secx3
1 arm dead hangs on small crimp rail, closed crimp, 3-4 sec max. 1 arm pull ups, opposite hand low on rope, open hand small crimp. 1 arm lower offs on holds on problems, campus climbing and downclimbing problems.
|09-Feb||Wednesday||Barn for Hangboarding||Barn|
|Running it out and sticking the crux...|
|Fighting the pump to place the pro...|
|And EXPLODE to the jug...|
|The toughest piece to place: a horrid flared crack...|