Monday, March 7, 2011

A Bit of a Low

Well, not all weeks can be good ones... This past week is definitely a good example of that. Sometimes, things just don't want to go your way. After my weekend high at Boven on my project, I came back to Pretoria and started to train on Monday.

I work in an hour of training on my hangboard, with a 15 minute warmup:

Min Type of hold Exercise Sec/Rep
1 Jug Drops 5 rep
2 Medium Edge Drops 2 rep
3 Small Edge Negs 5 rep
4 Pocket Pull-upp 5 rep
5 Medium Edge Hanging 20 sec
6 Jug Pull-up 10 rep
7 Medium Edge Hanging 20 sec
8 Small Edge Hanging 20 sec
9 Medium Edge Pull-up 5 rep
10 Jug Hanging 40 sec
11 Medium Edge Hanging 25 sec
12 Medium Edge Hanging 25 sec
13 Small Edge Pull-up 5 rep
14 Small Edge Hanging 20 sec
15 Jug Hanging 1 min


Followed by a 30 min program with a 6 kilo weight vest
Min Type of hold Exercise Sec/Rep
1 Jug Drops 5 rep
2 Medium Drops 3 rep
3 Small Pulls 5 rep
4 Medium Negs 5 rep
5 Pocket Pulls 5 rep
6 Medium Drops 2 rep
7 Jug Hang 30 sec
8 Jug Pulls 10 rep
9 Medium Pulls 5 rep
10 Small Hang 15 sec
11 Medium Hang 20 sec
12 Jug Drops 5 rep
13 Small Hang 15 sec
14 Jug Hang 40 sec
15 Medium Hang 20 sec
16 Medium Pulls 5 rep
17 Small Hang 15 sec
18 Medium Hang 20 sec
19 Small Hang 15 sec
20 Small Hang 15 sec
21 Medium Hang 20 sec
22 Jug Pulls 10 rep
23 Medium Hang 20 sec
24 Small Hang 15 sec
25 Medium Pulls 5 rep
26 Jug Hang 40 sec
27 Medium Hang 20 sec
28 Medium Hang 20 sec
29 Small Hang 15 sec
30 Jug Hang 1 min

In the evening I bouldered a little, concentrating on dynos and pinches. Also with 6 kilo weight vest. I felt pretty strong throughout the evening and when I took off my vest at the end of the night I flew up all the problems I was working with the vest on, although I was quite tired.

On Tuesday I went back to the cave and spent the afternoon working the boulder problems that Wesley set for the comp on that Saturday. I did them all with my weight vest on so they felt really hard and reachy, but got easier at the end of the day when I took off my vest.

Wednesday I rested and did some work on my thesis for the most of the day. Wasn't particularly productive but at least I did some more than I had done on the previous two days.

Thursday I did some stamina training... No weight vest. This is tough work and involves a 4 minute set of work encores! The first minute utilizes 6 sets of holds, 7 seconds on with 3 rest on each hold with arms straight. The second minute uses the same 6 holds with arms at half lock. The third minute is then at full lock. The forth minute is just pure torture! Try to do 10 pull ups in 30 seconds on a small hold! I dare you! Take 5 minutes off and repeat! Do this for 5 sets in total and you have a workout.

This is what it looks like for the training log!
Grip Goal Goal 10-Mar




just off straight jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
90 degree jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
full lock jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
Rest, 10 small pulls 30 secs, 10 small pull ups 10 10
Rest 10 min

just off straight jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
90 degree jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
full lock jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
Rest, 10 small pulls 30 secs, 10 small pull ups 10 10
Rest 5min

just off straight jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
90 degree jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
full lock jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
Rest, 10 small pulls 30 secs, 10 small pull ups 10 10
Rest 5min

just off straight jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
90 degree jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
full lock jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
Rest, 10 small pulls 30 secs, 10 small pull ups 10 10
Rest 5min

just off straight jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
90 degree jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 6
full lock jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med 6 5.5
Rest, 10 small pulls 30 secs, 10 small pull ups 10 9


140 138.5



98.93%

video
Fun stuff.

So now for the bad part of the week: Boven this weekend. It all started off with an easy on sight of Grannie's Cottage (25) and a quick repeat of Condor (27) as warm up to put the draws up for Frankie, but it all went downhill from there. I felt great putting the draws on my route, linking it from the 3rd bolt to the anchors placing draws but after that I never had any success. My two attempts were both to the same place: falling off at the infamous right hand crimp at the top. Grrr.

The next day was no better. Tried to on sight Bamboozled (27). Gave it a very valiant effort, down-climbing the moves probably 10 times before giving up. Worse yet, I couldn't even make it to the top of the route so I had to down-climb it to clean. Frustrating. Tried Dropkicked again too and didn't quite make it to the top before I decided it was a bad idea and cleaned it. My project was a disaster too. Fell off in the shake at the top on the first attempt: see video. And my second attempt was just stupid, so I pulled my gear off it and went home.

video

Low points can be good for learning and for teaching you lessons, but they are still very frustrating nonetheless. I shall simply have to work harder and clear my head before I head back there with Paul Brouard next weekend, for 8 days. I am convinced that it will go then. Might also jump on either Lab Rat or Jabberwocky. I may very well just need a change of pace with my project...

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