Later that Saturday Kyle and I headed out to do some trad climbing. It was a breath of fresh air. We started off jumping on a brilliant 19 called Through the Looking Glass which was an easy on sight with the purpose of sighting in my eyes for the placements. Heart Of China was next on the list, a solid 23 that I would have walked all over if I had soloed it or climbed as a sport climb, but all that gear jingling around on my shoulders caught me be surprise so instead of walking up the climb like I normally do on anything under 26, I over gripped and fiddled with gear. I led it out quite significantly though, probably 3m between placements, a total of 5 on a 25m route. All of them expect for 1 were solid and the 1 that I thought wouldn't hold didn't. I took a 6m whipper on a number 5 BD nut, ripping the micro nut I had placed a few inches above it. Got everyone's blood pumping.
Second attempt was also pretty interesting when I accidentally climbed 2m past my first important piece of gear which resulted in me soloing the first half of the climb till I placed the next piece of pro, which I then backed up with the nut I was carrying from the missed placement. After this I was quite happy and so was Kyle who was considering how he might have to jump off the ledge on which he was belaying to try to take up the slack. Fortunately the route was not difficult up to this point so even whilst I was fiddling with my precarious placement I felt solid in my mind. The rest of the route was still a bit of a challenge for a 23 but I had a brilliant time! It is worth every drop of its 5 stars ***** !
I worked my project a bunch during the rest of the week with little success. I did reach new high points every day I tried it right up until the last day of the trip but alas no red point, no first ascent. I did decide on a name of it at least: Psychotic Features. It drives me a little made, that's for sure.
I got a new pair of shoes this week. The new Edelrid Typhoons. I have to tell you the shoes are awesome. I put them on my feet for the first time and they didn't feel like they needed to be broken in at all. Within 3 climbs they felt perfect, so much in fact that I was able to edge on some of the smallest holds on Vorpal Sword efficiently and quickly on the first try. It was really quite something. I would recommend them highly. They are built on the same last as the Ravens but don't have the sliding rails which means that they are slightly better for toe hooks. The shoes are priced the same as the Hurricanes but are more down turned for more precise foot placement on steeper routes. Add them to your quiver!
I did manage to crush Vorpal Sword (31) in a 8 attempts total. I'd been on it once or twice at the beginning of the year but there was one stopper move for me which I could crush statically instead of having to dead point my way up the crux. The route revolves around a 25 lead-in to the bar counter rest, where the climber is able to turn around and put his arms on the ledge to stare out across the valley and wish there was a beer there. Liquid chalk will have to suffice, which is a great idea to work through the crux. The next two bolts from here are the crux and a tough boulder problem and revolve a small crimp into a gaston and then a massive move to a small crimp. Powerful stuff. But it's not over yet, the big move to a sloping, half-digit crimp for two fingers is from a poor undercling on the right hand and requires very high feet which aren't particularly good. After you catch this the rest of the climbing is simply amazing and makes you feel really good about yourself.
Jabberwocky was the next route on my tick list. I got the draws up and worked the moves out by the end of my second go. Third go saw me work out the crux moves. I did my first red point attempt and made it half way through the crux! Next go I made it one move further, then managed to link the route from mid-crux to the chains before I cleaned it. This is a really interesting route. The lower crux is 28ish and then moves into a 7C boulder problem and immediately into a 27 route to the chains. There are some decent shakes in between, but no good feet on the upper section of the route. It's very pumpy and extremely fingery. I have never had to hold on to crimps as small as the ones in the crux. Not only does one have to hold on to the crimps, but feet have to move from one tiny smear to the next. I love it. It's strangely not my style but my endurance is so good that I arrive at the crux fresh, boulder the crux and then shake on the small holds after the crux to get enough back to reach the chains! Lovely! I am very close to the red point. Just need some skin to grow back; the blood blisters on my right index and middle fingers will attest!
Well, that was yesterday. Today was a new day.
Went to the boulder cave and worked in a strong campus session. Warmed up for 30 minutes and then hit the board. But only after I set a quick problem that simulates the Jabberwocky crux!
Campus session was pretty gentle:
1-3-5-7-9
1-3-5-7-9
1-4-6-8-9
1-4-6-8-9
1-4-6-8-9
1-4-6-8-9
1-4-6-8-9
1-4-6-8-9
Start on 4 & 6 move lower hand to 9
Start on 4 & 6 move lower hand to 9
Start on 4 & 6 move lower hand to 9
Start on 4 & 6 move lower hand to 9
Start on 4 & 6 move lower hand to 9
Start on 4 & 6 move lower hand to 9
Start both hands on 6 left to 9 drop from 9 to 3
Start both hands on 6 left to 9 drop from 9 to 3
Start both hands on 6 left to 9 drop from 9 to 3
Start both hands on 6 left to 9 drop from 9 to 3
Start both hands on 6 left to 9 drop from 9 to 3 use 3 fingers only
Start both hands on 6 left to 9 drop from 9 to 3 use 3 fingers only
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