Monday, May 16, 2011


I have been thoroughly swept off my feet by bouldering! I have been training my power and power-endurance so much in the past months that bouldering has now become incredibly appealing! I went back to eZemvelo this week, twice. GREAT FUN!

On Thursday I was there with Schalk, Johnny and Ansie. Was a great day. I warmed up on Animal Planet (7C) and within a few tries managed to send it. Schalk was so close to the send too, he fell off the final hold twice. Shame bud, those 5.10s are just not made for heel hooks! Later on I sent Healing Power (7C+) which was awesome!

Animal Planet 7C

Healing Power 7C+

Went back to eZemvelo on Sunday with Falco, PW and Tii. Was another brilliant day. I warmed up by repeating Animal Planet so that I could should the onlookers the beta. Falco sent it in about 4 goes after he got the beta. STRONG MAN!!

Squirrel Drums Zipper 6C in approach shoes :)

I showed them Healing Power after that but there was no sending there. Shortly after we moved to the Italian Stallion dyno (7C). Absolutely awesome dyno! I was finally able to stick it! Falco also got it in about 6 goes! We managed to nab the 4th and 5th ascents!

Catching the dyno on Italian Stallion 7C

We moved on to a project of mine: First Reflection, this should be 8A, it will be my first when I get it. Falco and PW were also very close to getting it after I figured out some very crucial beta to get off the ground: a very thin and technical heel hook into a very difficult move into the starting holds of Second Reflection! Both PW and Falco flashed the standing start Third Reflection and decided it needed to be downgraded so but Third Reflection (now 7B+) and Second Reflection (7C) are slightly downgraded. I had my suspicions but was not sure one way or the other as the gradings were suggested by others.

Last problem of the day was Flashpoint (7C) opened by Marijus Smigelskis. Really fun, very powerful and short. Managed to point it in about 20 min. Very cool moves revolving around a heel hook on a thin hold up the roof.

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