Wigwam, Plastic and SEVERE CRUSHING!

Well, this week started off hitting Wigwam with Illona and Don. Was a lot of fun except that both Don and Illona weren't quite feeling 100% plus Illona ended up being flipped upside down on her first attempt (bump on the head wasn't nice), I was attacked by wasps at the top of Running Bare and Don got a beauty of a blood blister on his right ring finger on the first try of the day. Hmmm. At this point, we were wondering what could possibly happen next. And then the weather took a turn for the worse, leaving Don yanking on draws in an attempt to clean Tomahawk. What a day.

On Monday, Illona and I decided to take a different approach to the climbing: Stamina training on my hangboard. We both did very well in fact. I was wearing a 5.2kg weight vest to compensate for the fact that I've lost 5kgs in the last month:

		B	I
just off straight	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	6
90 degree	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	6
full lock	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	6
Rest, 10 small pulls	30 secs, 10 small pull ups	10	10
Rest	10 min
just off straight	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	6
90 degree	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	5
full lock	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	4
Rest, 10 small pulls	30 secs, 10 small pull ups	10	10
Rest	5min
just off straight	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	6
90 degree	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	5
full lock	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	3
Rest, 10 small pulls	30 secs, 10 small pull ups	10	10
Rest	5min
just off straight	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	6	6
90 degree	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	5.5	4
full lock	jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med	4	2
Rest, 10 small pulls	30 secs, 10 small pull ups	10	10
Rest	5min	109.5	99
		97.77%	88.39%

Went to Bobbejaan's Berg on Tuesday for a little bit of bouldering. Was thoroughly upset to find that entrance to the area had nearly doubled in price so I think I'm not going to be heading there again. I'd rather drive further and pay less at eZemvelo where there is a much great abundance of rock. I'm quite sad about losing a destination that only takes 25 minutes to reach from home, which means I could go any day for a afternoon or morning session. Too bad.

Wednesday I got an sms from Paul Brouard asking me if I wanted to hit the barn for a training session. We had a great time there with Paul and Illona and James. Some insane bouldering happened right before my eyes. It really makes me realize how strong 8c+ climbers actually are when I try to do the problems Paul was setting.

Friday found Paul and I heading back to Wigwam for his last day in South Africa. It was fantastic. Paul crushed both Running Bare (31) and Squall Play (30) second go. I climbed both lines too but didn't managed to redpoint. I am very close on both of them, nearly sticking the first move on Running Bare and having been able to clip the crux draw on Squall Play but not able to move off the heel hook.

Saturday was the big day though of this week. After finding out that it was raining at Wigwam (which is where I left my draws and rope) I headed out to eZemvelo. This was the best decision that I'd made in a while. My new-found bouldering strength paid off completely. I warmed up by crushing a 7C called Third Reflection opened by Paul Bruyere, which had been a project of Schalk Erasmus and myself on my last visit to eZemvelo. I then added a low start to it 10 minutes later giving it the grade of 7C+ as suggested by Paul and Schalk.

Next on the chopping block was Where's Willis (7B+), a very cool line with a double dyno to a compression hold. Quite unique. The only way it is possible is with a heel-toe lock with the right foot! SOOOO cool. Right next door is Wesley Black's King Kong (7C). Took me a little while to figure it out, but eventually I stuck the dynamic throw to a finger lock and then it was all over! Schalk showed me a dyno project on the same boulder that had been tried in the past. It was very cool, 1.5m+ from a good hold to a section of rock that is less than 10cm wide and 5cm deep with slopers all around it. I managed to stick it after a bunch of tries. After some discussion I called it Learn To Drive: inspired by Dina and her horrible driving ability which wasted 45 minutes of our morning! I graded it 7B+ after trying the Italian Stallion dyno (7C) which is not too much harder than this one. I think that it might be easier if you are taller but time will tell. I did not manage to catch the Italian Stallion but Schalk manage to make the third ascent of this proud line. The first ascent belongs to a tiny Italian dude, second is Paul Brouard and third is Schalk, who caught this one and now has done his first 7C!!! Congratulations!!!

I did Dragons and Shrooms first go. The problem was opened at 7B but I don't know if that is right, 7A felt more appropriate. Last of the day was Animal Planet (7C). Stupid Brian dorked it by marking the wrong hold, so I fell off the last move twice!!!! DUMBASS!!!! Oh well, you know what, you win some and you lose some. I'll cruise this next time when I haven't bouldered all of eZemvelo first. I just wish I had some pictures to commemorate this week...