The Masochist's Monologue is a blog by Vertigo athlete, Brian Weaver. His passion for climbing has led him to pursue some masochistic training regimes, that have helped him climb hard routes in a short amount of time . Brian's approach to the sport of climbing can be benefited from, and adopted by, anyone willing to dedicate enough time to their passion for climbing. Brian is sponsored by Vertigo Industries, suppliers of: Edelrid, Mad Rock, Omega Pacific, and Vaude. www.vertigogear.co.za
Monday, November 14, 2011
Training and Fun
The last three weeks have been relatively uneventful, but fun at the same time. I have spent a few days at Chosspile, a few days at Wigwam and a few days at the Barn. Here are the specifics.
After coming back from Blouberg, I was broken. I had to take a few days off. But then I got back into training in style! I started off on the Wednesday by running for 40 minutes. I was very tired though and ended up jogging and walking for the most of it. After this I was off to the Barn for some campusing with Paul. We hit his wall hard!
Started off:
Big rungs
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-2-3-4-5 double handed
1-2-3-4-5 double handed
1-3-5 double handed
1-3-5 double handed
1-3-2-4-3-5 double handed
1-3-2-4-3-5 double handed
1-5-1
1-5-1
1-3-5 (3 was on a mono)
1-3-5 (3 was on a mono)
1-3-5 (3 was on a mono)
1-3-5 (3 was on a mono)
10 min rest
Medium rungs
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-2-3-4-5 double handed
1-2-3-4-5 double handed
1-4-6
1-4-6
1-4-6
1-4-6
Rest
Small rung
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-4-6
1-4-6
1-4-6
1-4-6
To finish off, Paul and I donned our weight vests, 8.2kgs for me, and then we did a set of really tough repeaters! 7 seconds on; 3 seconds rest x 7 followed by 1min 50sec rest.
Jug
deep slot
3 finger slot
shallow crimp
small crimp
2 finger pocket
Encores! 7 seconds on; 3 seconds rest x 7 followed by 1min 50sec rest. Straight arms, bent arms, full lock, bent, straight, bent, full lock! SUFFER! 8.2kgs!!
Jug
Deep slot
Medium edge (failed at repeats 6-7)
Small edge (failed 5-7)
Thursday
Run for 45min
Swim for 20min (500m)
Campus at the barn
Big rungs
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-2-3-4-5 double handed
1-2-3-4-5 double handed
1-3-5 double handed
1-3-5 double handed
1-3-2-4-3-5 double handed
1-3-2-4-3-5 double handed
1-5-1
1-5-1
1-3-5 (3 was on a mono)
1-3-5 (3 was on a mono)
1-3-5 (3 was on a mono)
1-3-5 (3 was on a mono)
Medium rungs
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
After this exhaustion set in.
We hit Chosspile on the Saturday, worked Anduril, did halfling, did Gollum, did Morn Not Over Much. Good for training.
We went back to Chosspile a few times with the same results: irritation and complains about the heat and sweaty rock.
As a result, I spent a week doing other things: Tuesday I found myself at eZemvelo working a project of mine. I'm convinced it will be 8A+, it's pretty sick. It's also a bit of a dabfest so it takes a lot of patience. Thursday Alex and I went through to Wigwam! Good fun. I tried out the Beast Mode (29/30?) project and figured out all the moves. Did a few laps on Last of the Mohicans (30) too. Finally on Sunday, we headed back out there with Paul and a bunch of guys from the Barn. It was great. I almost sent Beast Mode, fell off the final move a few times. I did redpoint Tomahawk, yet again but it was still fun.
Monday: did some more campus training.
Big rungs
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-2-3-4-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-3-5
1-5-1
1-5-1
Medium rungs
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9
1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9
1-3-5-7-9
1-3-5-7-9
1-3-5-7-9
1-3-5-7-9
1-2-5
1-2-5
1-4-7
1-4-6
1-4-6
1-4-6
1-4-7
Small rungs
1-3-5-7-9
After that, my skin told me that Wigwam yesterday and campusing today is no longer an option...
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