Monday, October 24, 2011
48 hours of Punishment!
I have had a really cool week. After my grueling training sessions on Thursday, Sunday and Monday, I went to the barn to go do some light bouldering on Tuesday. I set a new problem on the 45 wall at the boulder cave which is really gymnastic and tough. Will hit it again soon.
Wednesday, Clinton and I went out into the kloofs of Magaliesberg for some hard trad. We warmed up on some easy stuff, Clinton did Barbara Streisand, a 23 on solid gear and I onsighted a 21 called Enemy Within. The best description for this line is SPICY. If you place your cams logically on your way up, you end up having nothing for the pod midway up the face. The result of this is a 8m lead out to take you to the 15m mark, where there is still only 1 piece of marginal gear for the next 5m. It's alright after this point from a gear side. Just don't fall off. It is pretty easy ground here with good feet and hands. Don't let the cracks fool you from the ground, there is no where to place gear in them :)
After this Clinton crushed Rhythm of Youth, opened by Peter Lazarus in 1989. Ningo showed me how to do the moves and where to place what. I cruised up Barbara Streisand and then moved into Rhythm of Youth's crux. I placed the pieces just fine, moved into the hard move perfectly and couldn't reach the lip :( on my flash or on any of the rest of the attempts. It is simply too far away, very MORPHO! I told Hector he'll crush it, totally! I discovered a really easy way to do the move if you're one inch taller than me but I'll have to dyno to the sloping crimp, all-points-cut-loose...
We weren't done yet. Clinton and I moved over to Richard Lord's Twist and Shout (28) which was opened in 1990. Heinrich Kahl did the second ascent two years ago, and I lapped up the 3rd that day. As Clinton headed off to solo the first pitch it started to hail! The hail stones were an 5cm in diameter and I was being pelted belaying from below a rock at the base. Clinton came so close to the flash, he was millimeters from gaining the hands-free kneebar at the end of the crux when he couldn't hold on anymore. He came down and let me have a go. I topped it out first go, good times. It made me feel very nostalgic, remembering all the good times I had with Heinrich. I miss you bud!
This was pretty much just preparation for the weekend! Clinton and Hector had plans to go to Blouberg and attempt to free an aid route there, the pitch is a 19A3 with two 22 pitches leading into it. We had a brilliant time. This is the math for the weekend off of my facebook status: