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| I LOVE THIS PIC! PSYCHED!!! Gustav you have brilliant ideas! |
When I arrived home from Waterval Boven I started to get back into indoor climbing. Yvette and I started going to the Barn to do some route climbing, I thought that it would be a good way to start getting my endurance back. This was shortly after the Youth Nationals and I was very excited to try out the new lines.
Some of there were really cool, others were really confusing, overall I've had some good sessions there with Yvette.
Other than the barn, I've been spending a bunch of time climbing at Chosspile with Paul from the Barn as well as Brendon Salzer and Tiffany. I was asked to hold a mentoring session for the GP Youth Girls. Sam, Gillian and Tiffany spent this past Saturday with Brendon and Me at Chosspile. We had a very good day working on some tough lines there. Gillian and Tiffany put in some work on Grimslade (27), both of them did very well. I think that Tiffany will crush the route in a few more goes considering how fast she worked out all the moves. Sam spent some time on Gollum with Brendon. She did the moves really fast and with just a little more confidence she'll nail it. Brendon almost got it second go, falling off on the last reachy move... Next time dude.
I've also been tradding around with Hector. We had a really brilliant day in Mhlabatini! I managed to onsight Quick Silver (19), Nothing Ventured Nothing Gained (22) and Egowhip (23). I couldn't manage to claim the long-standing bounty for Soulcrusher though... I read the beta right but after 3 hard pushes and downclimbing I decided to go for the move but couldn't quite stick it. The day was absolutely brilliant though and very inspiring. I can't wait to get back there and investigate some Steve Bradshaw lines such as Twighlight Beauty (32) and Rivers of Rain (27), not to mention the unclimbed crack right next door to Rivers of Rain which gives me goosebumps...
But on the other hand, I've been having a pretty sticky time. I have been feeling a bit weaker than usual, but this can be expected from the lack of training over the last few months. I'm quite happy that I've finally found some more psyche to help me get back in the swing of things. I've managed to do Bully and Halfling a few times as well as repeating Fossil Fuel second go. Shadowfax and Anduril are still projects of mine. I'm having a tough time with both lines in my weakened state.
SOOOOO.... The training, what about the training...
Thursday was my first formal training in months and I shared it with Frankie and Ilse. Good times!
We focused on stamina and finger strength training and then pulled out a big core routine.
Basic warmup of 15 minutes of silent feet climbing at the boulder cave.
Next we played add on until we had a route of 20 moves.
We then repeated the line 10 times starting every two minutes initially and then decreasing the resting time. We kept the route reasonably easy, but I would alter the moves from time to time to create a deeper pump in the arms.
After we were done with this, we took 5 minutes off and then moved into an Encore Routine:
We used the campus board which has a sloping rung to do 5 sets of encores.
We used various hand positions each set, beginning with straight arms, then bent at 90 degrees and then fully locked and REPEAT. This is done 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off for 1 minute.
Rest for 2 minutes, change grip position and repeat the encores.
I used:
open hand 4 fingers
open hand 3 fingers
devil hang index and back two (only half a set before changing to a better grip)
back 3 fingers
front 2 fingers closed crimp (couldn't complete, did 4 of 6 then switched to 3 fingers)
Afterwards we did a core training session
Paul's "D Session" for Burl :) For the "Hops" we used a flat bar over a door frame to lock off and move back and forth. I would lock off at 90 degrees then match hands, move back to a wide grip, then match the other direction --> do this for 20 secs. 45 degrees seemed to be the toughest for us.
| Body Tension and Burl | 10/04/2011 | 13/10/2011 | |
| crimp-4 finger pock hops. 90 degrees | 20sec | 6 | 20 |
| crimp-4 finger pock hops. 45 | 20sec | 8 | 20 |
| crimp-4 finger pock hops. 180 | 20sec | 15 | 20 |
| Rail match front lever kicks | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| crimp undercling front lever kicks | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| Rest | 5min | ||
| One arm L from bent with pause bet | 10 | 4 | 5 |
| One Arm R from bent with pause bet | 10 | 6 | 6 |
| past pullups. | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| Rest | 1min | ||
| R arm encores on big pocket | 1min | 5.2 | 0 |
| Rest | 2min | ||
| L arm encores on big pocket | 1min | 6 | 0 |
| Rest | 1min | ||
| R arm front lever kicks assist door frame | 10 | 5 | 10 |
| Rest | 1min | ||
| L arm front lever kicks assist door frame | 10 | 5 | 10 |
| 136 | 90.2 | 84 | |
| Percent | 66.3235294 | 93.12639 | |
| Rest | 3min | ||
| Right star platform | 1min | 1 min | |
| Left star platform | 1min | 1 min | |
| Standard platform | 1min | 30 sec | |
| lower back strengthener | 1min | 1 min |
This is a very good program. We skipped the 1 hand encores as we just completed two hand encored earlier in the night.
On the 16th I did a 20minute bouldering warmup at the barn, flashing all but one of the boulder problems in the cave.
Afterwards I spent a good amount of time on the campus board. I would make sure to not rest any longer than a minute between sets ensuring that I would be constantly building on the previous set. This is for a slight bit of power-endurance training and not just top-end strength which requires you to be slightly more rested before starting the next exercise.
Large rungs first
1-3-5-7-9-11 complete
1-3-5-7-9-11 complete
1-3-5-7-9-11 complete
1-3-5-7-9-11 complete
1-4-7-11 L complete
1-4-7-11 R complete
1-4-7-11 L complete
1-4-7-11 R complete
1-5-10 L complete
1-5-10 R failed 10 didn't quite commit properly
1-5-10 L complete
1-5-10 R complete
1-6-1 L complete
1-6-1 R complete
1-6-1 L complete
1-6-1 R complete
Medium
1-3-5 Complete
1-3-5 Complete
1-3-5 Complete
1-3-5 Complete
1,2-5 Complete
1,2-5 Complete
1,2-5 Complete
1,2-5 Complete
Small
1-3-5 Complete
1-3-5 Complete
1-3-5 Complete
1-3-5 Complete
1,2-5 Complete
1,2-5 Complete
1,2-5 Complete
1,2-5 Complete
Good stuff
17/10
| Min | Type of hold | Exercise | Sec/Rep | |
| 1 | Jug | Drops | 5 rep | |
| 2 | Medium Edge | Drops | 2 rep | |
| 3 | Small Edge | Negs | 5 rep | |
| 4 | Pull-upp | 5 rep | ||
| 5 | Medium Edge | Hanging | 20 sec | |
| 6 | Jug | Pull-up | 10 rep | |
| 7 | Medium Edge | Hanging | 20 sec | |
| 8 | Small Edge | Hanging | 20 sec | |
| 9 | Medium Edge | Pull-up | 5 rep | |
| 10 | Jug | Hanging | 40 sec | |
| 11 | Medium Edge | Hanging | 25 sec | |
| 12 | Medium Edge | Hanging | 25 sec | |
| 13 | Small Edge | Pull-up | 5 rep | |
| 14 | Small Edge | Hanging | 20 sec | |
| 15 | Jug | Hanging | 1 min |
| Grip | Goal | Goal |
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 |
| Rest | 10 min | |
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 |
| Rest | 5min | |
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 |
| Rest | 5min | |
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 |
| Rest | 5min | |
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 |
| 140 | ||
17/10
Warmup, this felt very easy today
| Min | Type of hold | Exercise | Sec/Rep | |
| 1 | Jug | Drops | 5 rep | |
| 2 | Medium Edge | Drops | 2 rep | |
| 3 | Small Edge | Negs | 5 rep | |
| 4 | Pull-upp | 5 rep | ||
| 5 | Medium Edge | Hanging | 20 sec | |
| 6 | Jug | Pull-up | 10 rep | |
| 7 | Medium Edge | Hanging | 20 sec | |
| 8 | Small Edge | Hanging | 20 sec | |
| 9 | Medium Edge | Pull-up | 5 rep | |
| 10 | Jug | Hanging | 40 sec | |
| 11 | Medium Edge | Hanging | 25 sec | |
| 12 | Medium Edge | Hanging | 25 sec | |
| 13 | Small Edge | Pull-up | 5 rep | |
| 14 | Small Edge | Hanging | 20 sec | |
| 15 | Jug | Hanging | 1 min |
| Grip | Goal | Goal | 17-Oct |
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 | 10 |
| Rest | 10 min | ||
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 | 10 |
| Rest | 5min | ||
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 | 10 |
| Rest | 5min | ||
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 6 |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | 3 |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 | 0 |
| Rest | 5min | ||
| just off straight | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | |
| 90 degree | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | |
| full lock | jug, rail, 2pock, crimp, 2pock, med | 6 | |
| Rest, 10 small pulls | 30 secs, 10 small pull ups | 10 | |
| 140 |
I totally pinged at the end of the 4th set and couldn't finish
It was a real fight to encourage myself to do the core training at the end... Once again I didn't do the one-handed encores due to the earlier training...
| Body Tension and Burl | 10/04/2011 | 13/10/2011 | 17/10/2011 | |
| crimp-4 finger pock hops. 90 degrees | 20sec | 6 | 20 | 15 |
| crimp-4 finger pock hops. 45 | 20sec | 8 | 20 | 18 |
| crimp-4 finger pock hops. 180 | 20sec | 15 | 20 | 20 |
| Rail match front lever kicks | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| crimp undercling front lever kicks | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| Rest | 5min | |||
| One arm L from bent with pause bet | 10 | 4 | 5 | 3 |
| One Arm R from bent with pause bet | 10 | 6 | 6 | 2 |
| past pullups. | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| Rest | 1min | |||
| R arm encores on big pocket | 1min | 5.2 | 0 | 0 |
| Rest | 2min | |||
| L arm encores on big pocket | 1min | 6 | 0 | 0 |
| Rest | 1min | |||
| R arm front lever kicks assist door frame | 10 | 5 | 10 | 10 |
| Rest | 1min | |||
| L arm front lever kicks assist door frame | 10 | 5 | 10 | 10 |
| 136 | 90.2 | 121 | 108 | |
| Percent | 66.32 | 88.97 | 79.41 |
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