|My poor fingers...|
King Kong should be 7B+ (low in the grade)
Third Reflection 7A+
Second Reflection 7B
Where's Willis 7B
Animal Planet Direct 7B+ (low in grade)
Dragons and Shrooms 6C+
7 Biatch 7A
Electroshock Therapy 6C+
Well, that concludes some thoughts about the boulders...
NOW on to the exciting stuff...
The Boven Rock Rally Weekend...
I arrived early in the week with the intention of getting all my endurance back. Started off on the Monday by doing Freak On (24) and trying Just Behrly (28/30+).
Tuesday was fun too, did an ascent of Dungeons and Dragons (26) as a warm up in the worst possible style. Afterwards I fought like a cat trying to get out of a bathtub on an attempt on Jack of all Trades (30). I did manage to hold on tight and do it in two parts. Later in the day I put up draws on Lab Rat (32/33) and then pointed Lotters Desire (28), also in the worst form possible while forgetting all the foot sequences.
Wednesday we went down to the Coven. I did a bunch of lines, but most notably I tried God Of Small Things (31) which I found really confusing. I had a really hard time between two of the bolts, I flat out couldn't figure it out. The rest of the route seems easy enough, I think I just need to bone down on some of the crimps. After that I did Devil in the Cauldron (28) second go. It was fun. Really should have flashed it, but I dorked the first move! Stupid...
Thursday I hit Tugela Blue (27). I hate this route, it is a pain to clean and a pain to climb. I suffered with rope drag on my first go (like usual), and almost ended up stripping the draws (like usual). But I stuck with it and cruised it on my second attempt and figured out an intelligent way to clean it, well, I simply cleaned it as I climbed the lower part of the route (first 5 draws at least). Later in the day, I fought a bunch with Lab Rat trying to figure out the moves some more. I managed to get them all together, save two. Tough little bugger. 7C+ boulder crux into 7B boulder crux with a crappy rest in between.
Gustav to put up a photo shoot for me later on...
|Brendon Salzer Photography: God No! at night|
|Brendon Salzer - God No! at night|
Saturday: the Rock Rally. I didn't participate, but what I did do was a lot of fun. Brendon Salzer volunteered to come and take pics and video of me on Pit Fighter (31). Pit Fighter is a seriously tough and sharp, 5-bolt route on the Rubik's Cube Boulder opened by Andrew Pedley. I never really have been too keen on the line, but after being in Rocklands for 6 weeks I have the finger strength and power to enjoy the line. Brendon got some awesome pics...
|Closing the open-handed hold|
|The cross over at the chains!|
PARTY... We had an awesome party that night... WOW.
Sunday was pure rest...I needed to recover from the party...
Monday morning I cleaned Pit Fighter and Lab Rat, coolest thing was doing all the moves on Lab Rat and doing really big links, now it's just a matter of time. After that I put the draws up on Godzilla for the night shoot!!! Gustav set up a very elaborate rigging system so that Brendon could shoot a movie of me on my attempt to climb Godzilla (32). I would like to say a big thanks to Alex Bester, who sat in that harness for hours on end acting as a giant weight with a bag of rocks attached to him. Big shout out to Brendon, Gustav, Max, Warren and the Ausies for all your help!
|Me on Godzilla (32) care of Gustav Janse van Rensburg|
Tuesday was the last day in Boven, I had to clean Godzilla. I was really tired. After that I went with Illona to Superbowl and she went up Snapdragon (29) but due to fatigue, I ended up cleaning it (and pointing it placing the last few draws). I have no idea how I did it, I was wiped out. Finally, I cleaned Raptophilia (32) for Illona, good times.
Well, that concludes the Rally wrap up. My fingers are still partial craters, but tomorrow might end up being Wigwam :) Good luck finger tips!